Centro Histórico is the lifeblood of history and culture in Mexico City. Including photos, this is where I went, ate, and stayed during a weekend visit.
If you’re searching for the cultural heartbeat of Mexico City (Spanish: Ciudad de México, abbreviated CDMX), look no further than the downtown area of Centro Histórico. From ancient Aztec ruins to modern art museums, elegant dining establishments to more humble culinary favorites, and a famous luxury hotel to a highly rated hostel hidden atop a high-rise apartment building, this is my one-size-fits-all weekend guide to the top spots in CDMX’s most important neighborhood.
Where to Go in Centro Histórico
1. Templo Mayor
Centro Histórico is Spanish for “historic center.” Taking that into consideration, there’s no better place to start your tour than the Aztec ruins of Templo Mayor. Spanish for “main temple,” the site is a critical reason that Centro Histórico is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Mexico City’s sprawling metropolis was built directly over the former Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan, and Templo Mayor and nearby El Zócalo – the second largest square in the world – were two of the powerful empire’s sacred locations.
Spend an hour or two walking through the temple and browsing the exhibits in the museum. Archaeologists are still actively working the site, but what they’ve discovered so far tells an incredibly compelling epic of Mesoamerican history.
Cost: $90 MXN ($5 USD) for a ticket to the site and museum
2. Metropolitan Cathedral
Immediately to the west of the Templo Mayor and bordering El Zócalo is Mexico City’s Metropolitan Cathedral. Begun in the 16th century and towering over 200 feet (61 meters), it’s easily one of the oldest and largest cathedrals in Latin America. The Metropolitan Cathedral’s location next to the Templo Mayor and the National Palace (Spanish: Palacio Nacional) allows you to see the succession of Mexican history in one sweeping glance.
The cathedral was constructed after Spanish conquest of Tenochtitlan, symbolizing the introduction of a new religion and language to the region. Centuries later, the current president of Mexico resides in the National Palace, which is within sight of both historical structures.
Go inside the Metropolitan Cathedral and spend a few minutes admiring the architecture. Unless you are Catholic and intend on visiting for religious reasons, you probably won’t stay long.
Cost: Free, but there is a collection box near the entrance if you want to donate or leave an offering.
3. El Zócalo
Once you finish up at the Metropolitan Cathedral, you might as well take the time to walk the perimeter of the second largest square in the world. Also known as the Plaza de la Constitución, El Zócalo has been an important site for the indigenous Nahua people of central Mexico since the time of the Aztecs. Set against a backdrop of stunning architecture, locals wearing clothing of their culture practice centuries-old traditions. I would suggest finding a shady spot and staying a while; moments like these are what travel is all about.
Cost: Free
4. Palace of Fine Arts
Located near the northwest corner of Centro Histórico, the Palace of Fine Arts (Spanish: Palacio de Bellas Artes) is only a 10-minute walk from El Zócalo. As the name suggests, the building and artwork on display are exquisite. My favorites were the murals by renowned Mexican painter Diego Rivera, particularly the four-part Carnaval de la vida mexicana (Carnival of Mexican Life) and El hombre controlador del universe (Man, Controller of the Universe).
As with the art showcased within, the structure of the Palace of Fine Arts tells its own story. It was begun in 1904 but took 30 years to build, largely due to construction delays during the Mexican Revolution of 1910-20. The palace theater, which stages opera and symphony performances at different times during the year, has two bronze mascarons at the entrance depicting the Aztec and Maya gods of water. Meanwhile, the theater’s famous crystal curtain was made by Tiffany’s in New York, a fitting embellishment for a city that has found a way to beautifully blend the modern with the ancient.
Cost: $75 MXN ($4 USD) for admission
5. Mexican Museum of Design (MUMEDI)
Just off El Zócalo is yet another art museum, one featuring contemporary works from around the world. I originally stopped at the Mexican Museum of Design (MUMEDI) for a cup of coffee in their café but elected to stay for a tour. I made an excellent choice.
The guided tour took us through several rooms featuring artwork from around the world. All pieces were prepared for a contest themed “A la Muerte con una Sonrisa” (To Death with a Smile). Winners were awarded with prize packages, some of which included a trip to CDMX and a stay in one of MUMEDI’s limited number of hotel rooms.
Cost: Less than $150 MXN ($9 USD) for coffee and a tour
Where to Eat in Centro Histórico
1. Breakfast at El Cardenal
The most famous restaurant in Centro Histórico, the elegant El Cardenal is a Mexico City institution. Although it’s also open for lunch and dinner, I recommend showing up early for a delicious breakfast of chilaquiles before taking on the day.
Cost: Around $300 MXN ($17 USD) not including tip
2. Churros at El Moro
Another famous spot, El Moro has been proudly serving their signature churros with delectable hot chocolate since 1935. Expect to stand in line with the locals as the staff works at a frantic pace to keep up with demand. Trust me – the wait is worth it.
Cost: Around $100 MXN ($5.50 USD) for four churros and a medium hot chocolate
3. Affordable food at Café El Popular
A great spot for an affordable lunch or dinner, Café El Popular is frequented by locals for good reason. Order some tacos and a local beer, and your belly will thank you.
Cost: Around $150 MXN ($8.50 USD)
4. Drinks with a view at El Mayor
Located on an outdoor balcony overlooking the ruins of the Templo Mayor, the El Mayor cafeteria and deli is a proper spot to unwind in the afternoon heat. I ordered a traditional tequila with a quesadilla and whiled away an hour just enjoying the centuries-old view.
Cost: Around $175 MXN ($10 USD) for a drink and light fare
5. Sunset Dining at Terraza Gran Hotel or Balcón del Zócalo
Terraza Gran Hotel and Balcón del Zócalo share similar characteristics: They’re both upscale, open-air venues with remarkable views of El Zócalo. I strongly recommend making dinner plans at one of these two locations or, at minimum, buying a drink at the bar and watching the sun fade over the square; there’s no better way to end a busy day touring Centro Histórico.
This sweeping view of El Zócalo, the central square of Mexico City, proves that Centro Histórico’s Terraza Gran Hotel has one of the best views in the metropolis. Click the icon in the bottom right corner of the player to expand the video.
Cost: $650 MXN ($36 USD) is roughly what I spent at each place
Where I Stayed in Centro Histórico
1. Gran Hotel in Mexico City
One of the most famous hotels in Latin America, you may have already seen the Gran Hotel in Mexico City on the big screen: It was the filming location for the opening scene of the James Bond movie Spectre in 2015. Luxury comes standard at the hotel, where the bellhop greets you with a bubbling glass of prosecco and the restaurant staff writes your name in chocolate on a complimentary snack plate.
Cost: Around $4,500 MXN ($250 USD) per night
2. Casa Eufemia Hostel
On the opposite end of the luxury scale from Gran Hotel Mexico City but no less good at what they do, Casa Eufemia Hostel is hidden away on the top floor of a high-rise apartment building. The view of Centro Histórico is extraordinary, especially in the early morning and at night.
Taking in the lighted vista from above the city, I lounged in a beach chair one evening listening to a nearby concert as the Torre KOI skyscraper’s clock marked off the time and fellow backpackers swapped stories of past adventures in other parts of Latin America. To put it succinctly, the serenity of the road is alive and well at Casa Eufemia.
Cost: Around $225 MXN ($12.50 USD) per night for a bunk in a six-bed mixed gender dormitory
Related Content
– Click to read my feature article “Teotihuacán: Down the Avenue of the Dead” for an in-depth look into the mysterious history of the ancient ruins near Mexico City.
– Click to read my short story “Beer in Old Mexico” about my reflections on the long historical shadow cast by the Aztecs over modern Mexico City.
– Click to view my high-resolution photo collection from Templo Mayor.