The remote jungle ruins of Tikal were once a major Maya city. This is where I toured, ate, and stayed at the Guatemalan national park.
Deep in the Maya Forest of Guatemala’s remote Petén Basin, ancient temples rise above the tree canopy. The tops of the stone structures provide a sliver of a clue as to what lies on the jungle floor: An extensive network of ruins that was once one of Mesoamerica’s greatest pre-Columbian cities.
Tikal National Park is a testament to the extraordinary advancement of the Maya civilization, and its isolated location has preserved the incredibly diverse biosphere in which the preeminent culture once flourished. Including photos, a map, and notes on hiring guides, these are the top places I toured, ate, and stayed in the park:
Top Places I Toured at Tikal National Park
1. Gran Plaza
Both literally and figuratively, Tikal revolves around the Gran Plaza. Translating to “Great Square” in English, the most iconic sites in the park are located here, including the Temple of the Great Jaguar and Temple II. The Gran Plaza is also near the geographical center of Tikal, as indicated on the below map.
Also referred to as Tikal Temple I and Great Jaguar Tikal, the Temple of the Great Jaguar is the park’s most famous structure. Excavations under the temple in the 1960s revealed a tomb containing a single male corpse: Tikal’s 26th king, Jasaw Chan K’awiil. The chamber tomb, later designated Burial 116, was adorned with extravagant commemorations, including jade, pearls, shells, and grave furniture.
Across the plaza to the west of the Temple of the Great Jaguar is Temple II, also known as the Temple of the Masks. Referring again to the above park map, the Central Acropolis and North Acropolis flank the Great Plaza on its two remaining sides.
Temple I, also called the Temple of the Great Jaguar, stands in the Great Plaza at Tikal National Park, Guatemala. The site was once a major Maya city. Click the icon in the lower righthand corner of the player to expand the video.
2. The Lost World and Plaza of the Seven Temples
Located at the southwest extremity of Tikal, the Lost World (Spanish: Mundo Perdido) and adjacent Plaza of the Seven Temples (Spanish: Plaza de los Siete Templos) were my second-favorite stop in the park. The tops of the two largest temples in the Lost World offer sweeping east-to-west views of the pinnacles of Tikal’s tallest constructions. The moss-covered monuments at the Plaza of the Seven Temples are quite beautiful as well, especially when tree-filtered sun rays manage to find their way through the dense foliage.
Be on the lookout for wildlife in this section of the park; I spotted several toucans and endangered Yucatán black howler monkeys (like the one I photographed below) while peering across the tree canopy.
3. Temple IV
While the Great Plaza’s Temple of the Great Jaguar and Temple II may be Tikal’s most well-known buildings, Tikal’s Temple IV is globally recognizable for a unique reason: It was the filming location for the rebel base in the revolutionary 1977 motion picture Star Wars: Episode IV – A New Hope.
Standing at 213 feet (65 meters), the towering temple is also one of the Western Hemisphere’s tallest pre-Columbian structures; as the below photo illustrates, you can see eastward for miles across the jungle from its overlook.
4. Temple VI and the Palace of the Grooves
Found at the southeast corner of the park, Temple VI and the Palace of the Grooves aren’t as visually striking as several of Tikal’s more famous sites. However, the area is significant in terms of historical value, especially Temple VI. Also known as the Temple of the Inscriptions and located at the end of the Mendez Causeway (Spanish: Calzada Méndez), it contains hieroglyphs that purportedly describe events all the way back to 1143 BCE.
Notes on Hiring Guides
I toured Tikal alone during the daytime. However, guides are available for hire throughout the day, and they are mandatory to enter the park during sunrise and sunset hours. I stayed at the Jungle Lodge Tikal, which charged $15 USD ($120 GTQ) for four-hour tours either at dawn, midday, or sunset. When purchasing sunrise and sunset tickets, be advised that they do not include the cost for the guide.
Sunrise tours start at 4 a.m., and the sunset tour offered by Jungle Lodge Tikal began at 3 p.m. If you would rather go it alone in the park during your stay, remember that Tikal closes to unguided tourists at 6 p.m. During my first day walking the ruins, I came down the stairs leading to the top of Temple IV at 5:30 p.m., and a member of the security staff promptly escorted me to the park entrance.
The strict enforcement of park hours is for the safety of guests at the park: When I arrived at the front desk at Jungle Lodge Tikal, a poster was taped to the counter. A tourist who failed to leave the park at closing time had been missing for a week in one of the Americas’ largest wildernesses.
Point being: Follow the rules, and don’t be that guy.
Where I Ate at Tikal
1. Restaurant at Jungle Lodge Tikal
I ate breakfast and dinner at Jungle Lodge Tikal’s restaurant, and both meals were excellent. I had a version of the traditional Guatemalan breakfast (shown below) in the morning and ordered a delicious serving of stewed chicken during my evening visit.
Cost: Around $100-$200 GTQ ($13-$25 USD)
2. Restaurant at Hotel Tikal Inn
The handful of lodging establishments that serve Tikal are grouped closely together. They are at the Área de Bungalows, which is shown in the lower left quadrant of the park map. I walked over to the Hotel Tikal Inn’s restaurant for dinner during one of my evenings at Tikal. I highly recommend the pollo a la plancha (grilled chicken, shown below) with a Guatemalan Gallo beer.
Cost: Around $100-$200 GTQ ($13-$25 USD)
3. Tikal Park’s Restaurant and Bar
Tikal Park’s Restaurant and Bar can be found across the road from the Área de Bungalows. I ate there for lunch, enjoying the plate of fajitas de res that’s shown below.
Cost: Around $100-$200 GTQ ($13-$25 USD)
4. Concessions inside the park
I visited Tikal in February, and the heat index still soared to 100 degrees Fahrenheit (over 37 degrees Celsius) during the day. Keeping yourself hydrated is a constant chore, and the park has stations along the trail system that offers concessions for purchase.
Cost: Around $10-$15 GTQ ($1-$2 USD) per snack or drink
Where I Stayed at Tikal
Jungle Lodge Tikal
As I mentioned earlier, I spent both nights at the park at Jungle Lodge Tikal. The place is outstanding, especially considering Tikal’s remote location. It’s the closest hotel to the beginning of the park’s trail system, and the restaurant and facilities are staffed admirably. Jungle Lodge Tikal also has strong historical ties to the park; its founder José Antonio Ortiz is credited with discovering Temple VI, the previously described Temple of the Inscriptions.
Regardless of whether you stay at Jungle Lodge Tikal or another accommodation at the park, please keep this in mind: You are in the jungle. In other words, don’t expect to be waited on like you are at a 5-star hotel at a posh tourist destination. Electricity is only available at Tikal during predetermined hours, which means internet connection and even the ceiling fan in your room won’t be operable for part of the day.
In short, Tikal is an adventure travel destination, and expectations relative to service and comfort should mirror that reality.
Cost: $467 GTQ ($60 USD) per night
Related Content
– Click to read my feature article “Tikal: The Day the King Died” about how Mesoamerica’s most mysterious metropolis altered the course of Maya civilization on one fateful day.
– Click to view my high-resolution photo collection of wildlife at Tikal.
– Click to read my travel guide “How to Get to Tikal from the Belizean Border.”