Located less than a mile from Guatemala, Xunantunich is one of the top attractions in the area of San Ignacio, Belize. This is how I toured the site by myself.

Dominated by the towering temple of El Castillo, the ruins of Xunantunich (Maya for “Maiden of the Rock”) are an essential stop for adventure travelers touring Belize’s Maya Forest. This is how I traveled to and toured the ancient city without a guide:

1. Travel to the Xunantunich hand-cranked river ferry

There’s only one access road to Xunantunich, and it requires visitors to cross the Mopan River via a hand-cranked river ferry. The crossing point is just off Western Highway in the Maya village of San Jose Succotz. The small settlement is to the northeast of Benque Viejo Del Carmen, a town that is only minutes from the Guatemalan border.

Most arriving at the river ferry will be coming from the jungle town of San Ignacio to the east, and it only takes 10-15 minutes to reach the location via taxi. Cab rates that I got from drivers in San Ignacio were as follows: $5-$10 Belizean dollars (BZD, equivalent to $2.50-$5 USD) for a drop-off at the ferry; $20 BZD ($10 USD) for a ride across the river (vehicles can cross on the ferry) and to the park entrance; $60 BZD ($30 USD) for roundtrip service.

Public buses heading both to and from Benque Viejo Del Carmen pass by the river ferry every 30 minutes. If you jump aboard one of these “chicken buses,” expect your rate to be much cheaper than a taxi. Those arriving at Xunantunich via cab from the Guatemalan border to the west should expect around a 10-minute transit; while I didn’t confirm with drivers outside the Belizean immigration facility, I would expect similar rates to the ones given to me in San Ignacio.

2. Cross the Mopan River

Riding the Xunantunich hand-cranked river ferry is a novel experience. There aren’t many ferries like this left on the planet, so the short ride is worth savoring. The crossing only takes around a minute, and it’s made possible by the strong arm of the ferryman exerting himself in the sweltering jungle heat. Please pay a gratuity for his services.

3. Follow the access road to Xunantunich

Once on the other side, you have a one-mile distance left to cover before reaching the park entrance. Those who are walking should prepare themselves for a rather steep climb along the paved access road that leads to the ruins; others with vehicle transportation will be at the gate of Xunantunich in a matter of minutes.

4. Pay the entrance fee at the gate

The ticket windows at the entrance to Xunantunich are staffed by park personnel, and the cost is only $10 BZD ($5 USD) to tour both the ruins and the visitor center. Important note before entering the park: Restrooms are next to the parking area just outside Xunantunich. I never found any inside the park, so it’s best to use them before beginning your tour. You are now only a short walk away from spectacular views of the ancient Maya world, like the one atop El Castillo that’s shown in my high-definition video above.

5. Climb the stairways of El Castillo

The ruins of Xunantunich are dominated by El Castillo (Spanish for “The Castle”), a massive 130-feet-tall temple (40 meters) that’s the second tallest manmade structure in Belize. While you could begin your tour by examining some of the site’s lesser ruins, I suggest starting here. El Castillo has multiple stairways, and your energy level will be at its highest upon entering the park.

Once you have made the short walk from the park entrance to the ruins, look to the south (i.e., your left); the hulking El Castillo will be unmistakable. You can start by climbing the steps at the front of the temple, which will give you a panoramic view from the south of Plaza A-1 (immediately in front of El Castillo) and the more distant Plaza A-2. If you look to the west, you can see for miles into neighboring Guatemala.

After you are finished enjoying this vista, walk toward the eastern stairway (i.e., to the right). Before descending, look up along the outer wall and behold the signature plaster frieze of El Castillo. The frieze (pictured below) wraps itself around the temple and depicts creation myths of the ancient Maya and the culture’s worship of ancestors.

The eastern stairway will drop you at the base of the temple. Walk right to the rear of El Castillo, which contains a set of stairways that will take you all the way to the top of the structure. The earlier views of the ancient city and surrounding jungle are further enhanced from the vantage point of the temple’s apex.

The spectacular acoustics of Xunantunich are also best appreciated from the high platforms of El Castillo; voices from Plaza A-1 carry all the way up to its lofty perches.

6. Walk the plazas of Xunantunich

You have seen Xunantunich’s other ruins from the high perches of El Castillo. Now it’s time to descend and take a closer look.

Plaza A-1 is immediately to the north of El Castillo, and the temple at the opposite end of the square (and the center of the site) is designated Structure A-1. This building is considerably smaller than Xunantunich’s most famous temple and much easier to climb. I saw several iguanas soaking up afternoon sunrays atop A-1.

Structures A-3, A-4, and A-5 (two of which are pictured below) are to the east (i.e., in the direction of the park entrance) of Structure A-1. To the west is the Lost Plaza, which is highlighted by the site’s two ballcourts. This is where the famous Maya ballgame called pitz was played. The high-stakes contest required competitors to bounce a heavy rubber ball through stone hoops that were attached to the sides of the court. The losers were often sacrificed to appease the gods.

Plaza A-2 is directly to the north of Structure A-1. Structure A-11, which was a royal palace, is on the opposite end. A-11 encircles the smaller Plaza A-3.

The climb to the top of Xunantunich’s towering El Castillo is worth the effort: The vista stretches for miles across the Maya Lowlands, including into Guatemala. Click the icon in the lower righthand corner of the player to expand the video.

7. Stop by the visitor center on the way out

Your tour of the ruins might be complete, but don’t forget about Xunantunich’s visitor center. Located before the ticket windows as you exit the park, the visitor center offers a shady reprieve from the Central American sun and a wealth of information on the archaeological site. Displays include artifacts and educational exhibits on subjects like El Castillo’s plaster frieze and the Maya ballgame.

8. Read my travel guides on San Ignacio and Tikal National Park

Xunantunich is an experience unto itself, but there’s plenty more to do in the area. Read my travel guide “A Backpacker’s Guide to San Ignacio, Belize” to learn about where I went, ate, and stayed in the area of the nearby jungle town. Check out my other guide “A Visitor’s Guide to Tikal National Park” for a comprehensive look at the famous Guatemalan archaeological site.

Related Content
– Click to read my travel guide “How to Get to the Belize City Airport from the Guatemalan Border” for steps on how I made it from the area of Xunantunich to the coast.
– Click to view my high-resolution photo collection from nearby San Ignacio, Belize.
– Click to read my feature article “Tikal: The Day the King Died” about how Mesoamerica’s most mysterious metropolis altered the course of Maya civilization on one fateful day.