The ancient ruins of Teotihuacán are only a short distance from Mexico City. Including videos and a map, this is how I toured the mysterious site by myself.
Located around 30 miles outside of Mexico City, the massive pre-Aztec ruins of Teotihuacán are an essential stop for anyone visiting central Mexico. The mysterious city is still being actively studied by archaeologists, who are attempting to piece together the story behind who built it nearly 2,000 years ago.
Visitors can hire guides for between $1,000-$1,500 MXN ($55-$85 USD) when they arrive at the park, or it’s possible to take a self-guided tour like I did. Here’s the route I took after arriving via public bus at Gate 2, which is directly in front of the famous Pyramid of the Sun:
1. If you arrived at Gate 2, start at the Pyramid of the Sun
If you just stepped off the bus at Teotihuacán from Mexico City, you are likely at Gate 2 (Spanish: Puerta 2), the entrance near the Pyramid of the Sun (Spanish: Pirámide del Sol) and the halfway point of the Avenue of the Dead. Pay $90 MXN ($5 USD) for a ticket (Spanish: un boleto) for both the site and museum at the entrance, walk past the line of vendors and behold the behemoth that is Teotihuacán’s most well-known structure.
Standing over 200 feet high with a base of 720 by 760 feet (220 by 232 meters), the Pyramid of the Sun is as large as it is mysterious. No one really knows who built it or greater Teotihuacán. The city is believed to have been first settled around 400 BCE, eventually reaching a population of 200,000 before being abandoned sometime in the seventh century.
Five hundred years later, the Nahua stumbled upon the ruins. The future founders of the Aztec Empire named the site Teotihuacán, which means “the place where men become gods” in the Nahuatl language. The site today is often referred to as “The City of the Gods.”
After you have finished marveling at its western-facing front, I suggest walking around the pyramid to really appreciate its size. It took me almost 10 minutes to do a full lap moving at a good pace.
2. Walk south to the Citadel and Temple of Quetzalcoatl
Since you arrived at Gate 2 like me, your tour will unfortunately not be completely efficient; you will either retrace half of your steps going north or south along the 1.5-mile-long Avenue of the Dead. I wanted to save the most iconic views of Teotihuacán for my final stop, so I chose to first go south to the Citadel (Spanish: Ciudadela) and the Temple of Quetzalcoatl (Nahuatl for “Feathered Serpent”) after checking out the Pyramid of the Sun.
Statues of the fearsome plumed deity Quetzalcoatl and the goggle-eyed rain god Tlaloc jut out from the Temple of the Feathered Serpent at Teotihuacán in Mexico. Click the icon in the lower righthand corner of the player to expand the video.
While the Pyramid of the Moon on the northern end of the site is more popular, the Citadel and Temple of Quetzalcoatl are worth the walk. It’s an eerie place, not only because of the temple’s appearance but also the artifacts that have been discovered there.
Quetzalcoatl was a major god in ancient Mexican mythology, and the price for the deity’s benevolence was extremely high. Archaeologists have discovered evidence of human sacrifice at the site. Their remains give the ferocious carvings on the temple walls an added element of sinisterness.
When you are ascending and descending the Temple of Quetzalcoatl, watch your step. The stairs are very steep, and the god of vegetation doesn’t need any more victims to its name.
3. Start the iconic walk north along the Avenue of the Dead
The Citadel and Temple of Quetzalcoatl are at the southern end of the Avenue of the Dead, which is an additional reason I decided to save the Temple of the Moon for last. Walking north on approach to the Temple of the Moon is a surreal experience. Constructed at the opposite end of the avenue, the smaller of Teotihuacán’s two pyramids rises in the distance, slowly getting larger as you make the walk toward its adjoining plaza.
As indicated on my map above, the Avenue of the Dead was constructed slightly east of true north. This made it point toward Cerro Gordo, a sacred mountain peak that towers nearby. The southern half of the avenue also has a succession of ascending and descending stairways before leading to a flat walk beginning at the Pyramid of the Sun.
As you near the hulking pyramid that marked the start of your tour, start looking off to your right for a footpath and a sign pointing toward “Museo.” This is Spanish for museum, and the exhibits are a critical part of any complete tour of Teotihuacán.
4. Take the side trail to Teotihuacán’s museum
The ticket that you bought at Gate 2 for $90 MXN grants you access to Teotihuacán’s main museum, which is at the end of a footpath to the east of the Avenue of the Dead. It’s a place you should make time to visit; the treasure trove of artifacts that archaeologists have pulled from the site tells a riveting and equally confounding story of an advanced civilization that seemingly vanished into thin air.
The museum features a large model of what Teotihuacán would have looked like at its historical apex. It also displays beautiful pottery and sculptures along with the remains of human sacrifices that were recovered from the ancient city’s temples and pyramids. Many of the signs are translated into English, allowing you to understand the importance of each artifact.
5. Finish the walk to the Pyramid of the Moon
Once you are done at the museum, take the trail back to the Avenue of the Dead and continue north. The Pyramid of the Moon is less than a mile away on a level path. After you pass the Pyramid of the Sun, start looking to the right for an overhang. The Cougar Mural, which I indicated in my map above, is found under its shadow.
Measuring 140 feet tall and 426 by 511 feet (43, 130, and 156 meters, respectively) at its base, the Pyramid of the Moon stands at the northern end of the Avenue of the Dead. While it’s smaller than the Pyramid of the Sun, the Pyramid of the Moon is no less worth your time. Its plaza is flanked by smaller pyramids, and the view looking back south down the Avenue of the Dead provides excellent photo opportunities of the Pyramid of the Sun.
A sweeping view of the Pyramid of the Moon’s plaza is shown at the ruins of Teotihuacán in the Valley of Mexico. The ancient city was built around 2,000 years ago. Click the icon in the lower righthand corner of the player to expand the video.
There are several places to tour around the Pyramid of the Moon. Here’s a link to Heritage Daily’s interactive map of Teotihuacán. The excellent resource provides information on the Palace of Quetzalpapálotl, the Temple of the Jaguars, and the Temple of Agriculture, all of which are in the vicinity of the Pyramid of the Moon.
6. Find your way out of Teotihuacán
You have now completed your tour of Teotihuacán, one of the most important historical sites in the Americas. Now it’s time to leave. If you are tired from walking or pressed for time, you could exit the park at Gate 3 and find a taxi. As my above map indicates, it’s next door to where you are now at the Pyramid of the Moon.
You can also retrace your steps back to Gate 2 and hop on the next southbound bus toward Mexico City. There’s yet another option, and it’s the one I took advantage of when I visited the ruins earlier this year: spending the night in the surrounding city of Teotihuacán.
7. Why not stay the night?
Truth be told, I toured the Teotihuacán ruins twice during my recent stay in Mexico. While many make a day trip to the ruins from nearby Mexico City, I think finding lodging close to the site is the best way to go. I recommend staying at the excellent and incredibly affordable Hotel Villa Victoria Pirámides, an easy 15-minute walk from Gate 4.
Here’s a link to the website of the hotel, which is on top of Restaurante Apapacho. Its top deck offers captivating views of the pyramids, especially as the sun sinks behind the ruins in the evening and the hot-air balloons make their approach to the ancient city at daybreak. While I opted to make the early morning walk back to Gate 4 for additional photography, the hotel can set you up with a balloon ride if you so choose.
8. A few notes for photographers visiting Teotihuacán
As I mentioned above, I visited the ruins twice, once in the afternoon and again the following morning. Like most locations, each time has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. The Pyramid of the Sun is best photographed in the afternoon with its western entrance catching the light. Whether you are photographing near its base at Gate 2 or the northern vantage points near the Pyramid of the Moon, the morning sun tends to wash it out.
The Temple of Quetzalcoatl, however, is the opposite: The shadows of the early day create a moody effect at this sinister structure. Since it can only be shot from angles to the south, I thought the Pyramid of the Moon was easily photographed in either the morning or evening.
If you like the place more to yourself, try to enter the park as early as possible. The site opens for visitors at 8 a.m. You will probably also need at least a light jacket. Teotihuacán is located at 7,500 feet above sea level (around 2,300 meters), making even the summer mornings a bit cold.
Related Content
– Click to read my travel guide “How to Get to Centro Histórico from Teotihuacán.”
– Click to read my travel guide “How to Get to Teotihuacán from the Mexico City Airport.”
– Click to read my feature article “Teotihuacán: Down the Avenue of the Dead” for an in-depth look into the mysterious history of the ancient ruins near Mexico City.