A cloud bank stretches across a valley as my taxi winds its way toward the remote Peruvian town of Cachora. The community is near the Inca ruins of Choquequirao. Click the icon in the lower righthand corner of the player to expand the video.
The trek to the Inca ruins of Choquequirao is one of South America’s greatest adventures. Here are the two ways I made it to the trailhead west of Cusco, Peru.
Recognized as one of Earth’s premier adventure destinations by travel authorities like National Geographic and Lonely Planet, the trek to the remote archaeological park of Choquequirao in the Peruvian Andes is no small feat. The arduous journey, however, begins well before you take the first step toward the mysterious ruins.
Reaching the trailhead, which is an approximately 110-mile drive (176 kms) to the west of Cusco, is a challenge that requires planning. I am one of the few foreigners that has made the solo trip from Cusco to Choquequirao multiple times; these are my notes (and opinions) on two ways to reach the starting point, which is at the mountain outpost of Capuliyoc.
Take a bus from Cusco (cheaper option)
Like many places, buses are the cheapest way to get around the Cusco tourism area. That also applies to the trip from the city to Capuliyoc, which is generally regarded as the best place to begin the Choquequirao trek.*
Starting from the Cusco airport, I took a 10-minute cab ride to the main bus station; it’s less than 2 miles (~3 kms) to the west. The fare was around $20 PEN (~$5 USD). If you want to be really thrifty, you could make the walk, but I recommend saving your legs and easing into the altitude acclimation: Cusco is over 11,000 feet (~3,300 meters) above sea level.
I arrived at the bus station early in the morning, and it was half-full of sleepy locals awaiting their departures. After browsing the ticket windows, I paid for a one-way fare for $40 PEN (~$10 USD) with Paredes Estrella to Ramal de Cachora, the junction that leads north to Capuliyoc. You will find it near the left edge of my below custom map; it’s the only way in and out of the area containing Choquequirao.
The bus ride took around 4-5 hours and included several stops to drop off passengers. An important note is that it’s your responsibility to alert the driver once you are close to your destination. Signal for cellular phones and their map apps are often nonexistent in the mountains surrounding Cusco, so it’s best to stay alert as you make your journey westward. A good indicator that you’re getting close is the signage for Saywite, which is a well-marked Inca archaeological site just to the east of the junction. Once you see the signs, I suggest moving to the front and saying something to the driver like, “Parada en Ramal de Cachora, por favor.” (English: “Stop at Ramal de Cachora, please.”)
The junction is an hour from the town of Cachora (shown on my above map), the only settlement between the main highway and Capuliyoc. There are two modes of transportation to reach the trailhead from Ramal de Cachora: taxi or shuttle (Spanish: colectivo). While shuttles run sporadically, there was a line of taxis at the junction every time I passed by. I negotiated a taxi fare to Capuliyoc for $90 PEN (~$24 USD); I would suggest budgeting more than my number to allow for potential price increases caused by fluctuating fuel costs, etc.
While not the quicker option, a shuttle fare will be cheaper. I heard about the colectivos from a few other hikers I met at villages on the trail. Going off my notes from those conversations, they may only run from Ramal de Cachora to the town square of Cachora; if that’s the case, you will have to arrange a taxi ride (20-30 minutes) to Capuliyoc.
* Most begin the trek to Choquequirao from the mountain outpost of Capuliyoc, but the trail actually begins in Cachora. However, the first 11 kms leading to the plunging descent at the Capuliyoc overlook are a relatively flat, unremarkable roadway.
Take a cab from Cusco (preferable option)
It’s more expensive, but I believe the preferable way for a solo trekker to reach the Choquequirao trailhead from Cusco is via taxi. I arranged mine through the staff at my hotel near the Plaza de Armas, and it cost me around $400 PEN ($100 USD). If you were heading straight to the trail from the airport, it will probably require a conversation in Spanish, perhaps with a few drivers; I had to explain to the hotel staff where I was trying to go because their partner drivers weren’t familiar with remote Capuliyoc.
The major benefit of taking a taxi is the precious time that’s saved: Leaving Cusco well before sunrise, it took me 4 hours to make the journey, and I was on the trail before the sun began beating down unforgivingly on the canyon. Those 1-2 hours of hiking in the shade were worth the extra money spent; as I detail in my travel guide “How to Hike to Choquequirao,” I made it to Marampata, the village next to the ruins, after nightfall.
Due to the extra time and effort expended using public transportation, I was only able to make the Apurímac River on the first day of my first trek to Choquequirao.
Related Content
– Click to view my high-resolution photo collection from the Choquequirao trail.
– Click to read my feature article “Choquequirao: The Last Stand of the Inca” for the story of how the Neo-Inca state of Vilcabamba resisted Spanish colonialism in the 16th century.
– Click to browse my travel guides for nearby Cusco, Peru.