The distinctive call of an oropendola echoes off ancient temples at the Caracol Maya ruins in Belize. The remote archaeological site is south of San Ignacio. Click the icon in the lower righthand corner of the player to expand the video.
San Ignacio is the crossroads for adventure travelers exploring Belize’s Maya Forest. This guide shows you where to go, eat, and stay at this jungle hideaway.
Located only minutes from the Guatemalan land border, the jungle town of San Ignacio, Belize, is a central hub for explorers who are touring the ancient ruins and extraordinary biodiversity of the Maya Forest. Including photos and a custom map, this is where I went, ate, and lodged while backpacking in the Cayo District’s capital.
Where to Go in the San Ignacio Area
1. Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM Cave)
Actun Tunichil Muknal (Maya for “Cave of the Stone Sepulchre,” abbreviated ATM Cave) is not just the top place to tour in the San Ignacio area – The sacred site is also considered one of the world’s foremost adventure travel destinations. Only accessible by hike and underwater swim, ATM Cave is the resting place of several skeletal remains which were likely sacrificial victims of the Maya. The most famous is the “crystal maiden,” a full skeleton that glows due to millennia of calcification.
Explorers are only allowed to enter the ATM Cave with a licensed guide, and there’s no organization that’s better than MayaWalk. Located on Burns Avenue in the center of San Ignacio, I hired their guides for all my tours in the area.
Cost: $250 BZD ($125 USD) per person for the all-day tour, which includes lunch with rum punch
Special note on ATM Cave: Electronics, including cameras, are banned inside the cavern.
2. Caracol
The remote ruins of Caracol (Spanish for “snail”) are one of the San Ignacio area’s signature destinations. Reached by a rough, nearly three-hour drive south of town, the former Maya city was once more powerful than even nearby Tikal. The site was discovered in the 1930s, but it wasn’t until 1985 that archaeologists began excavating it in earnest. Standing atop the 140-feet-tall Caana (42 meters; Maya for “sky place”), one can see into Guatemala to the west and across the Belizean jungle to the east.
Cost: $15 BZD ($7.50 USD) for an admission ticket if driving; $130 BZD ($65 USD) per person for an all-day tour with MayaWalk that includes transportation, lunch, and stops at Rio Frio Cave and Rio on Pools
3. Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve
Just like Caracol, Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve is south of San Ignacio. The lush jungle area has three primary attractions: Rio on Pools, Rio Frio Cave, and Big Rock Falls. Leaving from the center of town, it takes around an hour and a half to reach Rio Frio Cave, which is the southernmost of the three destinations. Expect to spend the whole day outside if you are touring all three of these spots.
Cost: Free if you are driving; $190 BZD ($95 USD) per person for an all-day tour with MayaWalk that includes transportation and lunch
4. Xunantunich
West of San Ignacio and less than a mile from the Guatemalan border, Xunantunich (Maya for “Maiden of the Rock”) is dominated by the towering 130-feet-high (40 meters) El Castillo. The road leading to the site is in the nearby border town of Benque Viejo Del Carmen. The drive or bus ride to the hand-cranked river ferry only takes a few minutes. Unlike other ruins in the San Ignacio area, most of Xunantunich doesn’t have tree cover; make sure you bring a hat and be on the lookout for iguanas sunning themselves on the temples.
Cost: $10 BZD ($5 USD) for a ticket to the site and museum; around $10 BZD ($5 USD) for taxi drop-off at river ferry, $20 BZD ($10 USD) for taxi ride to the site entrance, or $60 BZD ($30 USD) for roundtrip taxi service
5. Cahal Pech
While not as impressive as massive Caracol or towering Xunantunich, the ruins of Cahal Pech (Maya for “Place of Ticks”) should nonetheless be on your list of places to see in San Ignacio. Found on the quieter southern side of town, the ruins are easily accessible and rarely busy, offering an intimate look at the architecture of the ancient Maya. I arrived at Cahal Pech early in the morning and had the place all to myself. As the sun shot shimmering rays through the jungle canopy, toucans flew across the tops of temples, just like they would have centuries ago when their builders stood in the same spot as me.
Cost: $10 BZD ($5 USD) for a ticket to the site and museum
Where to Eat in San Ignacio
1. Ko-Ox Han nah
Maya for “Let’s go eat,” Ko-Ox Han nah is on Burns Avenue near the heart of the action. Also open for breakfast and lunch, I stopped by for dinner during my first night at San Ignacio and ordered the pork loin with rice and vegetables. The dish is atop Ko-Ox Han nah’s favorites list for a reason; accompanied with a Belizean-brewed Belikin beer, it certainly doesn’t disappoint.
Cost: Around $40 BZD ($20 USD)
2. Cenaida’s Belizean Food
Cenaida’s is found near the intersection of Bullet Tree Road and Far West Street. Along with a delicious order of stew chicken, the restaurant is where I had Belize’s national dish: rice and beans. The meal was well-prepared, and the excellent rum punch I ordered did nothing but help the quality of the plate. If you want to dine at Cenaida’s, be advised that their hours are short; the restaurant is only open from 11 a.m.-5 p.m. daily.
Cost: Around $16 BZD ($8 USD)
3. Cucina 1904
Located at the corner of King Street and Eve Street near the Hawkesworth Bridge, Cucina 1904 is a solid stop for a cocktail. The outdoor eating establishment also has an underrated menu. I ordered the shrimp ceviche for dinner and smothered it in Marie Sharp hot sauce, which is the staple condiment in Belize. It was quite tasty.
Cost: Around $36 BZD ($18 USD)
4. San Ignacio Market
Bordering both Savannah Street and Joseph Andrew Drive, the San Ignacio Market is where you can find delicious local produce on the cheap. I went there twice while staying in San Ignacio and purchased a variety of different fruits such as papayas, bananas, and oranges. The street food served up in and around the market is also a great and affordable meal option.
Cost: Around $5 BZD ($2.50 USD) for a couple days’ supply of fruit
5. Coffee de los Mayas
While Ko-Ox Hah nah is near the heart of the action, Coffee de los Mayas is squarely in the middle of it. The small shop is located across from MayaWalk Tours where Burns Avenue turns into a pedestrian street. Opening at 6 a.m. and closing at 8 p.m., Coffee de los Mayas offers a caffeine fix throughout the day along with tasty baked treats. If you are going to be in town for at least a few days, make sure to pick up a punch card from the staff.
Cost: No more than $15-$20 BZD ($7.50-$10 USD) for a coffee and snack
Where to Stay in San Ignacio
1. Falling Leaves Lodge
Ideally situated just above the Maya ruins of Cahal Pech, Falling Leaves Lodge offers a quiet retreat at the top of a steep hill overlooking San Ignacio. The hotel is limited to 15 rooms, all of which are under the shade of jungle trees. It also has an onsite spa and restaurant. If you decide to eat dinner at Obsidian, I recommend ordering the Maya fish along with a Panti Ripa, which is one of Belize’s most popular cocktails.
Cost: $310 BZD ($155 USD) per night for lodging; around $60 BZD ($30 USD) for dinner at the hotel restaurant (Obsidian)
2. Yellow Belly Backpackers
Just like Falling Leaves Lodge, Yellow Belly Backpackers is also near Cahal Pech. It’s at the bottom of the hill leading to the ruins. Yellow Belly is the congregation point for young adventure travelers that find their way to Belize’s Maya Forest. During my two nights at the hostel, I met people from across the European Continent and North America. Some were passing through for a short time like me, intent on heading further west into nearby Guatemala. Others were staying for longer, taking their time to enjoy the unique environ that is the jungle town of San Ignacio.
Cost: $29 BZD ($14.50 USD) per night for a bunk in a four-bed mixed gender dormitory
Related Content
– Click to view my high-resolution photo collection featuring images from San Ignacio, Belize.
– Click to read my travel guide “How to Get to San Ignacio from the Belize City Airport” for tips on traveling to San Ignacio both cheaply and efficiently.
– Click to read my travel guide “How to Get to the Belize City Airport from the Guatemalan Border” to learn how I made the journey from the jungle to the coast.
Are there any hidden gems or off-the-beaten-path locations in San Ignacio that adventurous travelers should seek out for a truly unique experience in the Maya Forest?”,
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If you wanted to put in the time and research, you could rent an off-road vehicle and travel to Caracol on your own. Taking a self-guided day trip (there’s no camping/lodging at the ruins) would allow you to intimately explore the site. You could also stop at the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Preserve’s major attractions on the drive back to San Ignacio.